The onward route from the stable where one emerges out onto the Isomata plateau down to Steni Vala rivals that of the first leg of the red route for one of the most scenic of the island. Not only is one high up on a plateau with ever more expansive views of the neighbouring islet of Peristera, the landscape of the plateau itself represents a stark contrast to most of the rest of the island with its red earth interposed between rutted grey rocks... not to mention its forest of cedar trees.
However, searching my photos of this part of the walk it was the sight of two turkeys which appeared out of nowhere to strut 'neath the shadow of pine tree that seems to have arrested my attention!
The cedar forest is worth another mention, which is not to say that the trees are tall; but rather that they are so thick and densely packed at times that with a little bit of imagination one might believe one was wandering in a maze! No doubt for this reason, the descent down off the Isomata plateau through the cedar forest is one of the most well-marked of Alonissos' routes with yellow and black poles supplementing the familiar red splotches of paint upon rocks. I should also add that half way down (or of course half way up) there is a beautifully situated picnic bench with great views of Peristera from amidst the cedars... just the thing for a nice evening picnic watching the exposed rocks composing the neighbouring islet taking on an ever more intense and firey hue.
On reaching the foot of the hill, a dirt road greeted me and led me after five minutes to Agios Petros beach, the beach neighbouring Steni Vala. Although it was a little difficult to find the beach at first given the amount of residential buildings crammed into the land behind the beach (I took a few wrong turns here into the yard of a private house) I eventually found the unsigned way down to the water through a garden there to bathe a while and enjoy the tranquility of one the islands more sandy, if small, beaches.
However, soon curiosity go the better of me and, seeking shelter behind a low wall, I changed out of my swimming shorts and back into my walking trousers to take the path for the final five minutes or so round the headland to the next bay of Steni Vala.
As Alonissos goes, there isn't really much in the way of accommodation, facilities or indeed substantial habitation besides Patitiri and the Hora. The notable exception to this is of course Steni Vala, a little anchorage catering for summer yachts with a couple of tavernas, cafes, a shop and even accommodation options which extend to a fairly large campsite. It was this latter feature which had attracted my attention many months before when I was casting around for a summer holiday destination which would allow me a range of camping options. In fact, I had at one point planned on heading straight for Steni Vala on arriving on the island for fear that the southern half of the island might be over-run with tourists given the time of year. In the event, this was far from the case; I had settled in well at campsite Rocks and was very much enjoying my quiet little patch. But still, I was curious to see what this other site had to offer. Very seldom do you find an island the size of Alonissos with two campsites and I felt I might just be tempted to move here for my second week on the island, or at least have it as a viable option for a future visit to the island.
On approaching Steni Vala by the coastal path, I didn't have to wait long: the campsite enjoys prime position right behind the beach:
If you look closely in this photograph you can see a tent just overlooking the beach behind a boat which is pulled up on the pebbles -- a pitch which, if not always the most private, certainly affords a wonderful view. Also impressive was the scale of the site, an important factor if you are to secure sufficient grounds around your tent to give you enough privacy. Taking a walk around the perimeter fence I could see that it stretched back some ways from the beach end, getting quieter and quieter the further one chose to be from the sea.
Although I never entered the site and have no idea what the facilities are like, I would say that little Steni Vala's campsite is worth a visit especially if you value peace and quiet and the tranquil atmosphere of a little harbour. However, it is probably an option to move on to after first having located to the south of the island or, like me, one to return to on a second visit.
Moving on round the bay, I enjoyed spotting which nationalities had moored here by the flags adorning the yachts, and once more allowed myself to be carried away by the little fantasy of one day owning one. Then it was a quick visit to a cafe for a frappe, to stock up with water, make inquiries about bus times back to Patitiri and, seeing as I was in the mood to explore a little more, make inquiries about the onward path to Glyfa, the next beach to the north.
As it turned out, I had a good two hours or so until the last bus so I set off round the coast once more relaxed and unhurried. Glyfa beach, situated some five minutes from Steni Vala was a real treat: a long, smooth white pebble beach with clear water and only minimal construction in the large area of olive groves behind. The kind of place where you could spend an afternoon with a good book and hardly notice a soul around you.
Glyfa beach: quiet with clear water... but bring a pair of bathing shoes!
More than this, climbing the low hill at the far end of the beach takes you onto the main road again for all of 2 minutes where you can descend a little onto the patch of land heading down to the coast to find a little secluded cove all to your own. However, one thing you must be very careful of on this stretch of coastline is sea urchins. They seem to thrive on the combination of smooth pebbles and clear unpolluted waters, and are by no means always apparent from the shore... as I can testify. I had plunged headlong into the water at Glyfa and was gaily splashing around when I suddenly noticed the bay beneath me was a mindfield of sea urchins! Best to get yourself kitted out with a pair of hard soled bathing shoes, available in local shops, before getting into the water along this stretch.
As I still had the time and the energy, I thought I might as well push on further north on the asphalt for a while to see what sights lay in store after Glyfa. However, when I reached nearby Kalamakia, another fishing harbour lined with tavernas, but nowhere near as cute as Steni Vala, I could see that there wasn't much more mileage I could get out of this stretch on foot and that it would be better to return to this stretch the following day... this time with some wheels.
So that's exactly what I did, on reaching Kalamakia, I took a walk out onto the little jetty to better see the lay of the coast line further north. Tantalisingly, Agios Dimitrios with its triangular shaped beach could just be made out. This would be on the cards for tomorrow, but first the gentler rhythms of the evening beckoned... as did my bus back to Patitiri.
On reaching the foot of the hill, a dirt road greeted me and led me after five minutes to Agios Petros beach, the beach neighbouring Steni Vala. Although it was a little difficult to find the beach at first given the amount of residential buildings crammed into the land behind the beach (I took a few wrong turns here into the yard of a private house) I eventually found the unsigned way down to the water through a garden there to bathe a while and enjoy the tranquility of one the islands more sandy, if small, beaches.
However, soon curiosity go the better of me and, seeking shelter behind a low wall, I changed out of my swimming shorts and back into my walking trousers to take the path for the final five minutes or so round the headland to the next bay of Steni Vala.
As Alonissos goes, there isn't really much in the way of accommodation, facilities or indeed substantial habitation besides Patitiri and the Hora. The notable exception to this is of course Steni Vala, a little anchorage catering for summer yachts with a couple of tavernas, cafes, a shop and even accommodation options which extend to a fairly large campsite. It was this latter feature which had attracted my attention many months before when I was casting around for a summer holiday destination which would allow me a range of camping options. In fact, I had at one point planned on heading straight for Steni Vala on arriving on the island for fear that the southern half of the island might be over-run with tourists given the time of year. In the event, this was far from the case; I had settled in well at campsite Rocks and was very much enjoying my quiet little patch. But still, I was curious to see what this other site had to offer. Very seldom do you find an island the size of Alonissos with two campsites and I felt I might just be tempted to move here for my second week on the island, or at least have it as a viable option for a future visit to the island.
On approaching Steni Vala by the coastal path, I didn't have to wait long: the campsite enjoys prime position right behind the beach:
If you look closely in this photograph you can see a tent just overlooking the beach behind a boat which is pulled up on the pebbles -- a pitch which, if not always the most private, certainly affords a wonderful view. Also impressive was the scale of the site, an important factor if you are to secure sufficient grounds around your tent to give you enough privacy. Taking a walk around the perimeter fence I could see that it stretched back some ways from the beach end, getting quieter and quieter the further one chose to be from the sea.
Although I never entered the site and have no idea what the facilities are like, I would say that little Steni Vala's campsite is worth a visit especially if you value peace and quiet and the tranquil atmosphere of a little harbour. However, it is probably an option to move on to after first having located to the south of the island or, like me, one to return to on a second visit.
Moving on round the bay, I enjoyed spotting which nationalities had moored here by the flags adorning the yachts, and once more allowed myself to be carried away by the little fantasy of one day owning one. Then it was a quick visit to a cafe for a frappe, to stock up with water, make inquiries about bus times back to Patitiri and, seeing as I was in the mood to explore a little more, make inquiries about the onward path to Glyfa, the next beach to the north.
As it turned out, I had a good two hours or so until the last bus so I set off round the coast once more relaxed and unhurried. Glyfa beach, situated some five minutes from Steni Vala was a real treat: a long, smooth white pebble beach with clear water and only minimal construction in the large area of olive groves behind. The kind of place where you could spend an afternoon with a good book and hardly notice a soul around you.
Glyfa beach: quiet with clear water... but bring a pair of bathing shoes!More than this, climbing the low hill at the far end of the beach takes you onto the main road again for all of 2 minutes where you can descend a little onto the patch of land heading down to the coast to find a little secluded cove all to your own. However, one thing you must be very careful of on this stretch of coastline is sea urchins. They seem to thrive on the combination of smooth pebbles and clear unpolluted waters, and are by no means always apparent from the shore... as I can testify. I had plunged headlong into the water at Glyfa and was gaily splashing around when I suddenly noticed the bay beneath me was a mindfield of sea urchins! Best to get yourself kitted out with a pair of hard soled bathing shoes, available in local shops, before getting into the water along this stretch.
As I still had the time and the energy, I thought I might as well push on further north on the asphalt for a while to see what sights lay in store after Glyfa. However, when I reached nearby Kalamakia, another fishing harbour lined with tavernas, but nowhere near as cute as Steni Vala, I could see that there wasn't much more mileage I could get out of this stretch on foot and that it would be better to return to this stretch the following day... this time with some wheels.
So that's exactly what I did, on reaching Kalamakia, I took a walk out onto the little jetty to better see the lay of the coast line further north. Tantalisingly, Agios Dimitrios with its triangular shaped beach could just be made out. This would be on the cards for tomorrow, but first the gentler rhythms of the evening beckoned... as did my bus back to Patitiri.
No comments:
Post a Comment