Tuesday 18 March 2008

Preparing myelf for a disappointment... or between glorious self justification and the purgatory of homelessness

Today, we finally found a flat... or maybe we didn't. It seems that the fates intend to keep us swinging between glorious self-justification and the purgatory of homelessness for a time longer...

Maria was contacted today by sms, a rare response to our long running ad on the internet, about a flat that was available in the centre of the oberstadt. Not only was it a 2 room kitchen bathroom with balcony in such a location as to raise eyebrows, but from their method of contacting us we could safely assume that this was a private deal... without the kind of competition that we have found so... inconvenient.

Being a hardened old Wohnung-nik of three months service, I could not be moved by these details and read her email of our imminent viewing with forced detachment, focussing instead on the three lessons that I still had to plan... but it looked good and I did allow myself a brief recon. of the apartment block on the way back up the road from work, learning thus that it was indeed a location worthy of fantasies of self-justification.

Maria and I met outside the flat at 1 pm and went for the viewing and, from the moment they opened the door, it went exceedingly well. If we can be said to have a secret weapon as a couple, something so heart-warmingly charming that even the most stoney faced German has to yield, it must be Maria when confronted with a particularly cute young puppy... and this couple had a really, really cute young husky pup type thing with a full-on tilting head and waggling gait.

From thence on, as we intermittently broke off our viewing to pet and coo over this plasmataki (I feel the Greek word best here), things went well, so well in fact that we were offered the apartment there and then... and we took it.

Walking out into the sunshine again, it felt almost too normal, as if nothing had really happened, as if our nightmare was not yet over...

On parting from Maria I headed homeward for to waste my vacant afternoon sleeping, dreaming and reading. As for Maria, she headed back to work where she would receive confirmation from the landlord. It was somewhere in the middle of ceiling gazing whilst contemplating the fate of Chris McCandless that I got a terse sms from Maria stating only that you should "Read your email". The message I read as follows:

Fuck it! The owner wants to meet us and she is not giving the appartment until 15th of April for some reason. It was too easy to be true. And I've already cancelled Max, that house is gone. Hope she will like us.

I hope so too...

And who is Max?

Max is the owner of a cute little sunny apartment in the Sudviertel which we had good chance of getting if it weren't for the fact that we told him definitively that we were no longer interested in it on account of finding this other one.

FXXX !!!





Monday 10 March 2008

Why should I camp in Greece

Here is a little piece I just wrote for a facebook group about camping in Greece. Kinda neatly sums up why I do it.

Why should I camp in Greece?

For me, the main advantage of Greece's climate is that one can spend time outdoors comfortably. Not only this, every little effort made to explore further off the beaten track rewards the visitor with inspiring vistas and the proximity of raw natural beauty. On the smaller islands in particular, the experience of living in a little tent on a quiet island beach can be magical. So if you think you might like to spend

A: your days fishing, walking, swimming or reading
B: your evenings in your 'local' beachside taverna
C: your nights sipping raki outside your tent under a dome of stars while listening to the waves breaking on your front porch...

... this might well be the kind of holiday for you.

Can I Free Camp in Greece?

Let's get the facts straight: free camping is technically illegal in Greece. In practice, however, the law is applied to prevent gypsy settlements, and summer camping is tolerated and even welcomed in quieter places (which means NOWHERE on places like SANTORINI, MYKONOS, PAROS, IOS etc.) as long as the following conditions are met:

A: You respect the locals which means no nudity, no drugs, no 'commune'
atmosphere. As a general rule, think scout camp; not peace camp.
B: It also means being discrete with your pitch. Seek out remote beaches
with few visitors and facilities. Don't pitch in the prime spot on the beach and if possible pitch off the sand. AND ALWAYS BE SCRUPULOUS ABOUT
GARBAGE AND MATTERS RELATED TO YOUR TOILET!!! Basically, the sea is for soapless bathing and tavernas, cafes, bars etc are for... well, I think you understand.
C: Relatedly, the money that you are saving by not paying for accommodation should go to the locals in the form of payment for coffees, drinks, meals, shopping and souvenirs. Free camping will only continue to be tolerated AND WELCOMED if you show the locals that you appreciate the beauty of their home and pay for the privilege of staying there.

And where can I free camp? Got any suggestions?

Yes. The following places are tried and tested. Here is my top 3.

1. Crete: Souyia, Agia Roumeli, Lendas, Gavdos. Many other places on the south coast in Heraklion province (esp. near Tsoutsouras and Keratokambos)

2. Donousa island, Kyklades (although definitely out of season as it can get quite crowded in high summer.)

3. Tilos, Dodecanese.

And what about organised sites?

If you have experience camping elsewhere in Europe, don't expect Greece to be the same. Most sites are simply no more that an olive grove with a shower and toilet block. Often times they are some way away from shops or places of interest and have no transport links. Having said this, there are some really beautiful sites in some really beautiful places. Again, if you like the simple life of walking, swimming, fishing, reading, eating, drinking all accompanied by heart-breaking beauty, these are the kind of places for you.

When and where should I go?

As a rule, avoid high seasons and popular resorts because the campsite will be so crowded and have such terrible facilities that you will feel like you are in "Bridge on the River Kwai". Here, again, are my top 5 sites (again all on islands).

1. Aegiali Camping, Amorgos, Kyklades.

2. The campsite called something like Stefanos Camping or Flower Camping on Patmos, Dodecanese.

3. The little site on the tiny island of Koufonissi, Kyklades.

4. Camping Paleohora, Hania Province, Crete.

5. Camping Rocks, Patitiri, Alonissos Island, Sporades.


If you want any further details, do not hesitate to message me. I am always happy to talk about this topic.

Happy camping and remember always to respect nature, your hosts and your fellow campers.

A